Eating like a Niçois: a field guide beyond the Promenade

Start with socca, but at the right place

Socca, the chickpea pancake of Nice, should arrive blistered and peppery, straight from a wood oven. Chez Pipo in the port district has been doing exactly that since 1923.

The petits farcis rule

If a restaurant serves stuffed vegetables in August, it is cooking in season. If it serves them in February, walk on.

Where we eat

• La Merenda: no phone, no cards, perfect pistou.
• Le Bistrot d'Antoine: lively, honest, best booked a few days ahead.
• Lou Pilha Leva: socca and pissaladière on a paper plate in Old Nice.

Our concierge note

Lunch is the Niçois main event. Book the special table for midday and keep evenings for a simple aperitivo on the Cours Saleya.