The quiet coves between Nice and Monaco, and when to go

Why timing matters more than location

Most visitors pick a beach and hope. We pick an hour. The coast between Nice and Monaco faces south-east, which means every cove has a window where the light is soft and the crowds have not yet arrived.

Plage de la Mala, Cap d'Ail

Reached by a staircase and the coastal path, La Mala is calm before 10am. Bring water shoes: the entry is pebbly.

Anse de la Scaletta, Èze-sur-Mer

A sliver of rock and clear water under the Corniche. Go late afternoon when the cliffs shade the sand.

Paloma, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

Arrive by 9am on weekdays. The water is the clearest on this stretch, and the view of Èze at dusk is unforgettable.

Our concierge note

From mid-July, take the train rather than drive: parking on the Basse Corniche disappears by 10am.